First, turn to a clean sheet of paper in your Visions Journal and.... What? Haven't I mentioned that you should have a Visions Journal? Oh, sorry. You probably already have one, but if you don't, you should. You need a place to keep all your writings, reflections, lists, pictures, questions, and research. I use a plain ordinary composition notebook (you know, the Holstein-cow print with wide-ruled pages so I can draw and scrawl big). I usually glue pictures and stuff on the cover to personalize it, and inside it, I write my visions, keep track of conversations, and make lists of things. OK, now that you have a Visions Journal, now make a list of what you need before you open your doors. (Assuming you have doors to open, that is. Maybe you are working from home, which in that case, you probably will work on an appointment-only basis to avoid the embarrassment of having a client walk in on you while you are relaxing in the tub.) Let's just say, before you start working, there are some things you need to purchase, find, beg, borrow, steal, whatever. Sewing machines, tools, lots of gadgets, gizmos, notions, and don't forget the all-important organization system. I'll briefly discuss each one before I get into how you are going to pay for it all (and please don't say, “credit card”!)
What do you need to start your business?
Are you ready to begin? Read on for some thoughts on some equipment and supplies you may need. As you read, start making a list. Indicate the items you already have and the ones you need to purchase. Research the cost of each piece of equipment. Add up the numbers.Equipment
Sewing machines. You probably have a space-age Pfaff, or something equally cool, that does 400 kinds of stitches and sews by itself when you aren't looking. Lucky you. Maybe you have a modest home sewing machine, or maybe you have a power machine. Me, I ran a low-tech operation. I started with my little Singer 503A because that is what I had. Later I bought a professional Rex, and added a Juki when things really started cranking. These machines were big, heavy, a little intimidating, and super-fun to operate.I bought the Rex for about $300 from a woman in Santa Monica who used to sew swimsuits. I think she was burned out and ready to quit, because she unloaded a ton of stuff on me: binding, thread, plastic baskets to organize my “jobs.” I was gratefully overwhelmed, excited, and clueless. But what a great machine that Rex was. Sewing on that thing was like flying a jet after my clunky Singer. It was self-oiling, which meant the underside of the machine rested in a pan of machine oil. How cool is that? You need to keep your machines clean and well-oiled. And you need to make sure that oil doesn't transfer to anyone's wedding dress or silk suit. It will happen anyway, but try to avoid it if you can.
Iron/ironing space. I used a regular old ironing board and a cheap iron for years. Eventually I augmented the ironing board with a big padded table. I never had any money, so I made my own pressing board out of a foam-padded, cotton-covered piece of masonite. I put it on my cutting table next to my sewing machine and pressed things there while I sewed. A relative gave me some of those stuffed padded pillow things—I know there's a name for them, but I—hams! Pressing hams, that's what they were called. I guess they do sort of look like hams. Plaid hams. And I had one of those collapsible gizmos that go inside a sleeve. I would use wadded up fabric, anything that worked, to be able to press all the parts that needed pressing.
You might be using a professional iron. Lucky you. I remember burning myself a few times on the irons at FIDM, but I never had one myself. I always bought the cheapest steam iron I could get and left it on high for hours on end. Nowadays they have irons with an auto-shutoff feature, so if you accidentally leave your iron on, probably it won't burn your house down. When I was in business, the auto-shutoff iron hadn't been invented. Or else I couldn't afford one. When I first saw an auto-shutoff iron, I was perplexed: It shuts off? After an hour? Why would I want that? How inefficient, was all I could think of to say.
I'm sure you have your favorite iron and pressing method, so I'm not going to give you any more pressing advice. Except be careful when ironing fabrics with a nap. If you have ever pressed velvet by accident, you know what I am talking about. I finally figured out if I laid a scrap piece of velvet face-up on the board, then I could lay the garment face-down on the velvet, press the backside of the velvet garment, and not flatten the nap. Duh. And oh, yeah: always use a press cloth, especially on synthetics. And keep a spray bottle of water handy, because if you have a steam iron, you will get tired of filling it with water. Plus, if you buy cheap irons like I did, the steam feature will stop working anyway. You'll get better results with the press cloth and spray bottle, especially if you are trying to adhere interfacing to wool. OK. Enough said.
Tools. Possibly your most important tool is a good pair of cutting shears. I received a huge, heavy pair of tailor's shears when I was a student at FIDM back in 1978. I still have them, although they are dull and gray with age. They seem impossibly heavy now; I can't believe I used to wield them so easily. Make sure you get a decent brand. Test the fit in your hand before you buy. Keep them well-sharpened. Store them away from your kids. And don't run with them. If you work with leather, you might want to try a rotary cutter. Electric shears are like an electric toothbrush; they just eat up batteries and make you feel like you aren't really working. But use whatever cutting tools work for you. What you probably won't need, though, is a professional cutting machine, the electric saw that can cut through a foot-tall stack of fabric. If you are doing custom work, it's unlikely you will make more than a handful of any one garment.
Patternmaking/cutting
tables. You can buy lovely tables that are just the right height, but you might want to be sure your business is off to a good start before you invest in fancy furniture. There's nothing sadder than having to sell off your furniture after the business fails. Because I started my business with a shoestring budget, my patternmaking/cutting table was a 3/4-inch slab of wood, with a Masonite veneer laid on top, supported by wood cubes, shelves, or filing cabinets. I added bricks or other devices to raise the table to a comfortable height. It was never quite right; I'm sure you can do better.
Patternmaking
tools and supplies. I presume you have all the tools and supplies you need to draft your own patterns. You probably have a big roll of pattern paper, am I right? You know, the white bond paper with the little letters and numbers spaced exactly a square inch from each other? And a roll of manila paper that weighs a ton? When I first started making patterns, I couldn't afford to buy a roll of pattern paper. I used tracing paper from the art supply store. And because I either pinned the tissue paper to the fabric, or weighted the pattern down with pattern weights, I didn't bother stapling the tracing paper pieces to manila paper. I just folded up the pieces like a home-sewing pattern and stored them in 9x12 manila envelopes. Low tech, not very professional, but my customers didn't care, and it worked.
I've long ago sold, lost, or given away my many tools of the patternmaking trade. I can't even remember what they are called. I no longer have a hip curve or an armscye gizmo. I still, however, have my metal L-square, although I rarely use it for anything. It hangs on the wall near the foot of my bed like an industrial strength wind chime, banging in the occasional breeze.
Like most creative people, once I learn the rules, I feel entitled to break them. Patternmaking is a perfect example. In fact, when faced with asymmetrical clients in non-standard sizes, I quickly realized I would have to break the rules. Some figures need special consideration when it comes to patterns. I learned to translate the two dimensions of pattern paper into the three dimensions of huge butts and bustlines. Here's where all those years of art school really paid off. With practice, I became adept at freehand drawing patterns that were remarkably well-fitting when made up in the final fabric.
I've long ago sold, lost, or given away my many tools of the patternmaking trade. I can't even remember what they are called. I no longer have a hip curve or an armscye gizmo. I still, however, have my metal L-square, although I rarely use it for anything. It hangs on the wall near the foot of my bed like an industrial strength wind chime, banging in the occasional breeze.
Like most creative people, once I learn the rules, I feel entitled to break them. Patternmaking is a perfect example. In fact, when faced with asymmetrical clients in non-standard sizes, I quickly realized I would have to break the rules. Some figures need special consideration when it comes to patterns. I learned to translate the two dimensions of pattern paper into the three dimensions of huge butts and bustlines. Here's where all those years of art school really paid off. With practice, I became adept at freehand drawing patterns that were remarkably well-fitting when made up in the final fabric.
Fabric. If you are doing custom jobs, you will buy fabric for each job. Sometimes there will be fabrics you use for many jobs—for example, lining fabric in popular colors, interfacing, and broadcloth for pockets. You need to figure out how to store the fabrics appropriately, so they will be usable when you need them. Special care should be taken with customers' fabrics. Some textiles don't fold well and should be hung on skirt hangers. Take a look at how your favorite fabric store presents the various types of textiles they sell.
Dressmaker's
form. These are sometimes called dressmaker's dummies—armless, headless torsos perched on metal stands, designed to help you drape, pin, and fit garments. As I recall, they aren't inexpensive, which is why I never bought one. I borrowed a size 8 dressmaker dummy from a stylist friend for awhile, though, and I found it helpful to show me if a partially sewn garment was hanging crooked or straight. The problem I found was that virtually everything I made was for clients who were not size 8. I have heard there are home-sewing versions that are adjustable. Maybe you have tried one? Being approximately a size 8 at the time, I was the most reliable dummy in the shop, so I used my own body to model bodices, sleeves, skirts, whatever I could fit into. Sometimes you have to see how it hangs, you know what I mean?
Packaging/presentation//display. When I say packaging, I mean how you wrap up the finished garment to send it home with the client. The type of garment dictates the packaging. I bought plastic dress and skirt hangers, the cheap kind that you buy by the gross, the kind that will snap if the garment is too heavy. I wrapped each garment in clear plastic garment bags, except wedding dresses, which I enclosed in heavy vinyl zipper-front bags made specially for gowns.
How you display things in your workspace will enhance or detract from your client's perception of your quality and integrity. Customers may not consciously notice the condition of your space, especially if you come highly recommended, but subconsciously they will notice how clean, tidy, and organized it is—or isn't. For example, I recently tried out a new drycleaners that was recommended by a friend. The front of the shop, the alterations area, was a mess. The small space was dusty and dirty, with cones of thread strewn about on the floor behind poorly maintained sewing machines. The glimpse I got of the back workarea wasn't any better. There were clothes lying haphazardly on a worktable, clutter everywhere. I was not impressed. I haven't been back since.
My workspaces were never quite that bad, but close. I worked in old buildings, and keep in mind, it was Los Angeles, where dirty air is taken for granted. Dust and grime filters in through invisible openings to coat every surface. I have never been Suzy Homemaker, but I did try to keep my space organized and tidy.
In the last space I rented, I hung a huge bulletin board made of soundproofing panels displaying polaroids of garments I had made. I stapled fabric swatches to cardboard pages and organized them in binders. I had samples of garments hanging on a rack, so I could show clients different styles and fabrics. I had piles of fashion magazines, and another wall of pin-ups torn from fashion magazines, all my favorite designers and designs: Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler, Issey Miyake. I can't remember them all now, and many have probably faded into history. (I wish I had kept all those photos, though, especially when I see padded shoulders coming back into style. When fashion recycles styles you knew 20 years ago, you know you are getting old. That's when you really get the difference between style and fashion.)
Computer/software. The heyday of my little business came and went before the age of personal computers. I kept all my records on paper forms I drew with a ruler and a pen and then copied at the local Kinkos. Nowadays, however, just about everyone has a computer. Even my 80-year-old mother has a computer (although she still hasn't mastered how to send an email.) So, you will probably want to get some kind of a computer to help organize your business. Read reviews and talk to people (like your bookkeeper/ accountant) to find out what kind of system would suit your needs. Eventually you will probably want to buy Quickbooks.
Some people have an aversion to using technology. If that is you, think long and carefully about why you dislike using technology. Are you afraid? Are you simply inexperienced? Maybe some basic training would help. If that fails, ask your kids. I guarantee they are neither fearless nor inexperienced. But if your computer has Internet access, make sure you have good virus protection.
How you display things in your workspace will enhance or detract from your client's perception of your quality and integrity. Customers may not consciously notice the condition of your space, especially if you come highly recommended, but subconsciously they will notice how clean, tidy, and organized it is—or isn't. For example, I recently tried out a new drycleaners that was recommended by a friend. The front of the shop, the alterations area, was a mess. The small space was dusty and dirty, with cones of thread strewn about on the floor behind poorly maintained sewing machines. The glimpse I got of the back workarea wasn't any better. There were clothes lying haphazardly on a worktable, clutter everywhere. I was not impressed. I haven't been back since.
My workspaces were never quite that bad, but close. I worked in old buildings, and keep in mind, it was Los Angeles, where dirty air is taken for granted. Dust and grime filters in through invisible openings to coat every surface. I have never been Suzy Homemaker, but I did try to keep my space organized and tidy.
In the last space I rented, I hung a huge bulletin board made of soundproofing panels displaying polaroids of garments I had made. I stapled fabric swatches to cardboard pages and organized them in binders. I had samples of garments hanging on a rack, so I could show clients different styles and fabrics. I had piles of fashion magazines, and another wall of pin-ups torn from fashion magazines, all my favorite designers and designs: Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler, Issey Miyake. I can't remember them all now, and many have probably faded into history. (I wish I had kept all those photos, though, especially when I see padded shoulders coming back into style. When fashion recycles styles you knew 20 years ago, you know you are getting old. That's when you really get the difference between style and fashion.)
Computer/software. The heyday of my little business came and went before the age of personal computers. I kept all my records on paper forms I drew with a ruler and a pen and then copied at the local Kinkos. Nowadays, however, just about everyone has a computer. Even my 80-year-old mother has a computer (although she still hasn't mastered how to send an email.) So, you will probably want to get some kind of a computer to help organize your business. Read reviews and talk to people (like your bookkeeper/ accountant) to find out what kind of system would suit your needs. Eventually you will probably want to buy Quickbooks.
Some people have an aversion to using technology. If that is you, think long and carefully about why you dislike using technology. Are you afraid? Are you simply inexperienced? Maybe some basic training would help. If that fails, ask your kids. I guarantee they are neither fearless nor inexperienced. But if your computer has Internet access, make sure you have good virus protection.
I have already described a kitchen workspace I had in Santa Monica, California. It was a tiny breakfast nook, with a glass-topped table and two bench seats. It was big enough for four people to eat breakfast, if they were small and didn't all have coffee and juice. I took over the space, hanging shelves on all three walls and stashing huge bags of fabric under the bench seats and under the table. The rest of the apartment was spartan, hardly any furniture in the entire place, and then, there was the nook in the kitchen, absolutely crammed with the supplies and tools of my craft. Not ideal.
You need space to do a good job. Don't settle for a closet or a breakfast nook. You need room for your cutting table(s), ironing board, machines, dress forms, and storage. You need a table and some chairs for clients to sit and watch you sketch their hearts' desires. You need a curtained privacy area with a mirror for fittings. You need space, the more the better.
Privacy. If you work at home, make sure your family will not be able to accidentally walk in on a client during a fitting. Your clients will expect you to provide a safe and private space for them to undress. Trust me, there are few things more awkward than introducing your shy, half-dressed client to your significant other. And if you are using the bedroom as a fitting room, it's only fair to your significant other that the space be client-free if it happens to be nap time.
How will you finance your startup?
Now you have a list of all the equipment and supplies, furniture and tools you need to begin operations. I bet it adds up to a rather intimidating chunk of change. Probably you are wondering how you are going to pay for it all? Don't assume you can just trot into your local bank and ask for a loan. Unless they have collateral (a house, property, a large savings account, stuff like that), most entrepreneurs cannot get a loan from a bank or a
venture capitalist until they have been in business for several years.
Family and friends
Many entrepreneurs turn first to family and friends for
startup funds. People who love you want to help you. They may think you are a
brilliant, creative genius whose designs will change the way people dress. They
may see your business idea as a way to get a better return on their cash than
leaving it in a bank. Maybe they secretly want a piece of your action, a chance
to be an entrepreneur without having to do any work.
I almost asked my parents to invest some money in my sewing
business. I’m so glad I didn’t, because I would have lost it all and been even
more beholden to them. They were already my reluctant benefactors, bailing me
out when I needed a root canal or a new transmission. To actually owe them money
would have made me their slave. I get sweaty just thinking about it.
Your family and friends may be perfectly normal, rational
people who will thoughtfully consider your request to invest in your business. If they are, before they write you a check, they will ask for a clear letter of agreement,
written by an attorney, spelling out the terms of your agreement. The agreement
will specify whether they are becoming shareholders (buying a share in your
business, thereby becoming co-owners with you), or if they are simply loaning
you some amount of money that you will pay back with interest at some specified
future moment in time. The risks of borrowing money from family and friends
cannot be overstated. The consequences of not paying back the loan can destroy
relationships. What I mean is, if you borrow money from your parents, the risk is that your kids won't see their grandparents much, because you will be busy hiding from them. As tempting as it is, be careful: Borrowing money from your parents or other loved ones might not be the best idea.
Selling shares in your business to family and friends might
be a viable alternative to borrowing money from them. If you make them co-owners
(shareholders), you don’t have to pay them back if your business goes belly-up.
On the other hand, if you give them part ownership, they may start acting like
owners. If they don’t like the way you are operating your business, they may
band together and vote for you to change your strategy. Or they may vote you
out altogether. (If you think it can't happen, read Steve Jobs biography.) So, before you sell shares to your mother, think about how it would
feel to have her there, at work with you, looking over your shoulder and
telling you what to do, all in the name of “protecting her investment.” You had
enough of that growing up, I bet. Enough said.
Partners
Many people share the burden of starting a new business with a partner. The partner can be a friend, a spouse, a relative, or a total stranger you found on Craigslist (not recommended). You can have more than one partner. Each partner, in theory, brings his or her strengths to the partnership. For example, my first partner Kate was fearless, whereas I was constantly bowed by the sheer terror of being alive. She was the one who could make phone calls without first having to fortify herself with a gallon of ice cream. She had a quirky sense of design, an eye for color, and an indefatigable optimism I could only aspire to. In fact, she didn't really need me at all, come to think of it. Well, maybe this is an example of how not to form a partnership. She had all the strengths, I had all the weaknesses. I count it a blessing that we are still friends.
My second partnership wasn't in the garment business. I partnered up with a musician and an investor. I was the snoid/gofer/graphic designer/groupie. See, I knew I had some strengths. The investor invested $500, which we promptly lost, and that was that. From that lesson I learned that you can't eat dreams.
My third and final partnership attempt was with my significant other. It was an art-related partnership: He made wooden things and I painted on them. It's too bad we didn't like each other all that much. The business might have lasted longer than a year. Still, I learned a valuable lesson from that experience, too: Don't go into business with a significant other. I'm sure you are thinking you will be the exception. I'm sure you are right.
In any case, if you do decide to join forces with a partner or partners, make sure you have a partnership agreement in writing, spelling out exactly what will happen if and when the sad day comes that the partnership falls apart. Creating a partnership is like getting married: It is a legal arrangement. You need a “pre-nup” to protect your assets. Divorce is sad and potentially ugly. So is dissolving a partnership. Spell it out in writing, have an attorney look it over, and then jump in with both eyes open.
Other Investors
SBA. You may qualify for government-backed loans from the Small Business Administration, especially if you are female or a member of a minority group. Check out the Small Business Administration Web site for more information.
Venture capitalists. Forget about it. You aren't the next Google. You are a little custom clothing business. Until you become the Wal-Mart of custom clothing, don't look for funding in the venture capitalist world.
On the other hand, maybe you will find an angel. A patron. Someone who believes in you, and wants to help you get up and running with some money, encouragement, and no expectation of speedy repayment. Lucky you. Anything is possible.
Venture capitalists. Forget about it. You aren't the next Google. You are a little custom clothing business. Until you become the Wal-Mart of custom clothing, don't look for funding in the venture capitalist world.
On the other hand, maybe you will find an angel. A patron. Someone who believes in you, and wants to help you get up and running with some money, encouragement, and no expectation of speedy repayment. Lucky you. Anything is possible.
Credit cards
A common method of starting a small business is to max out your credit cards and trust that you will successful enough to pay off the balance before your debt swallows everything you own and your life along with it. Credit cards were my downfall, but maybe you will be lucky. I’m sure you will be able to use them responsibly—that is, using them for legitimate business expenses and paying off the balances at the end of the month. I was not that smart, but I blame cash flow, not my excessive faith in my little plastic gods. When I had a lot of work, cash was flowing through my hands like water. When work slowed down, I relied on my credit cards and credit lines. For a few years I was able to use credit to get me through the down cycle, but eventually my habit caught up with me. When you start using one credit card to pay another, you know it's the beginning of the end. At that point, all it took was one large tax bill, and I was in debt for more than my business could generate. By the time I called it quits in 1987, I had about $15,000 in credit card debt, interest rates were high, and I had no option but to get a job.
If you decide to finance your startup costs with unsecured
credit in the form of credit cards or credit lines, be aware that most small
businesses don’t make it, and you are on the hook for all that debt.
A similar word of caution should be said about using a home equity loan to fund your start-up, especially in the current real estate market, where home values have dropped in so many communities. Even if you qualify for a home equity loan or line of credit, I strongly urge you not to pursue this route. Starting a small business is risky, and most businesses fail within five years. Do you really want to risk losing your home? Wait until your business shows a sustained profit and you have home equity you can afford to lose.Home equity loan/line of credit
A final word about funding your startup
Entrepreneurs are action-oriented people. But we are also sometimes dreamers, especially those of us in the visual arts field. I don't know what it is about artistic types, but some of us have a hard time keeping our feet on the ground. If you find yourself saying with conviction, “Sure, I know most businesses fail, but not me! I'll be the exception to the rule!” then be warned. Yes, you may be the exception. After all, someone has to win the lottery. But the odds are against you, especially if you don't plan carefully and act prudently. I know it won't do any good for me to warn you, if you are hell-bent on leaping off the cliff. I've made that leap several times myself. Each time I called it a Leap of Faith, and proclaimed my belief that the Universe would catch me before I hit splat on the ground. Each time I learned some valuable lessons, but I didn't win the lottery of entrepreneurship. It did make me wiser, but the wisdom came at a price. Okay, enough said on that topic.Now that you have a clear idea of how much it will cost you to start your custom sewing business, and an idea of where to find funding, read on to learn how to market your business.
